High-class transport
PT (public transportation) in Senegal (and probably just about anywhere in Africa) involves not only the transportation of humans, but also a number of other animate and inanimate objects. Goats and sheep are trendy items. Around Tabaski (Natural History Museum) nearly every ride I took incorporated a stop alongside the road where Pulaars from the north were camped with their herds to sell. …goats in bags (empty rice sacks), goats in boxes, goats on the luggage rack, goats in your lap, goats on the floor, goats with two legs tied sitting beside you… I’ve sat next to women carrying boxes full of chickens (that later escaped to provide en route entertainment – no need for those silly magnetic checkers games). I have personally transported kittens in a plastic crate on my lap, which my fellow passengers found most peculiar – go figure, if you aren’t going to pluck it, skin it, and throw it into the peanut sauce... Boxes of fish are a mainstay (got to have the ever popular rice and fish dish), as are parts of larger animals. Chairs, bed frames, really anything that needs to get from point A to B goes in or on the PT vehicle.
On my recent trip back to Kaolack from Dakar, I was ready to expect anything. I was not, however, prepared for a stop at the local ‘quicky mart’ for the sole purpose of picking up chips, soda, and other snacks to eat on what was turning into a regular road trip (for reference, I would be surprised if 1/3 of my village has tasted a carbonated beverage). I had ended up in a car with Dakar patrons going to attend Independence Day festivities in Kaolack (4 April 1960 - from France; complete independence was achieved upon dissolution of federation with Mali on 20 August 1960). Not having enough money myself, I accepted a Pringles-like chip from the shiny silver bag. As I settled back into reading my New Yorker, I had to chuckle. I would have been far less surprised to have a large dead rodent end up on my lap – I was really the cow-cow (Wolof for hillbilly) from the ali bi (the ‘bush’) in that 7-place (common station wagon PT vehicle).
On my recent trip back to Kaolack from Dakar, I was ready to expect anything. I was not, however, prepared for a stop at the local ‘quicky mart’ for the sole purpose of picking up chips, soda, and other snacks to eat on what was turning into a regular road trip (for reference, I would be surprised if 1/3 of my village has tasted a carbonated beverage). I had ended up in a car with Dakar patrons going to attend Independence Day festivities in Kaolack (4 April 1960 - from France; complete independence was achieved upon dissolution of federation with Mali on 20 August 1960). Not having enough money myself, I accepted a Pringles-like chip from the shiny silver bag. As I settled back into reading my New Yorker, I had to chuckle. I would have been far less surprised to have a large dead rodent end up on my lap – I was really the cow-cow (Wolof for hillbilly) from the ali bi (the ‘bush’) in that 7-place (common station wagon PT vehicle).
posted by Arianne at 1:03 PM
2 Comments:
Hello Arianne, I am so happy to read your blog and thank you for allowing strangers to share this experience with you. I am a awaiting my invitation, which should also be to western Africa, leaving this July. I loved seeing your packing list, as I edit mine on a daily basis! What 5 things would you say are an absolute must-have, and what 5 things could you have left at home? Is it really as hot and humid as they say? Are you ever chilly?! Sorry, too many questions. I hope we have a chance to meet some day. Vicki
Hi Vicki,
I'm glad that you found my blog useful; as my family can attest, I spent many weeks editing and re-editing my packing list as well. I just went back and made some comments on my packing list which will hopefully be of help. Best of luck with your placement; let me know where you end up. If you're leaving in July you won't be coming to Senegal, but if you ever want to visit, there's a great community of volunteers here. And if you end up in Morocco or Madagascar, I trust you will have a cot ready for my visit ;)
5 things absolute must (for me):
1)headlamp
2)ipod (or other music)&shortwave radio (love BBC)
3)good, durable, lightweight pants/capris (a zipper pocket or two are nice, but basic pants that are easy to pack, wash, and comfortable to wear are amazing)
4)good sandals w/arch support and good tennis shoes for running (I'm a huge fan of chacos) some PCVs switch to wearing cheap flip-flops, but many also get fallen arches after 2 years
5)a good, dense book that you've been meaning to read but have never had time (I crave intellectual stimulation in the village); and/or a small instrument that you have wanted to learn to play (many people in my training stage brought guitars, mandolins, etc.)
5 things I could do without:
1)kidney infection
seriously though, I've gone through my list and don't see anything I regret bringing, or never use - but if I had to knock off a few items, this is what they'd be
2)soccer ball (some PCVs love soccer; I rarely play, and have yet to blow up my ball. I'm waiting for an appropriate time to give it to the kids in my village)
3)I loaded up my carry-on with random books at the last minute; there are tons of good books to read in country
4)camel pouch (haven't used it very often, but I have plans for it in the future)
5)some of the toiletries (loofah, lotion, shampoo, etc. I can find here - but I'm not terribly picky about these things)
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